Gastronomy‘s a historical legacy at Campamento

Between 171 B.C. and 150 A.D. Rome recognised the nearby metropolis of Carteya as the main producer and supplier of coveted “garum”, an exquisite delicacy consisting of salted fish that it became the culinary symbol of the Roman Empire.

Later on, many new ingredients and spices were introduced which enriched the taste of European dishes, mainly during the Muslim period (from 8^th to 14^th century) and also during Spanish Empire (from 15^th until 18^th century).

Without a doubt, Campamento is one of the Borough of San Roque’s most historical villages, although the present urban area was founded due to the Great Siege on Gibraltar in 1782.

This was the location for an important military camp of the Spanish forces, which gave place to the current village and its present-day name.  Although we must not forget that country estate already existed here called “Benalife”, which was prior to the British invasion of Gibraltar. The name seems to indicate a Moorish settlement as Gibraltar was conquered by the Christian forces in 1462.

These turbulent times came and went, in the late 19^th century, the village became closely linked to Gibraltarian firms. This is why a racecourse was built here in 1916 by the Andalusian Horse Racing Company. These installations were built coinciding with the construction of the paved Campamento - La Línea road. During this period there was also a golf course, a polo field and greyhound racing track.

Campamento was essentially a residential area for the wealthy in Gibraltar. It became a recreational retreat for many British aristocrats and key military figures from the Rock in the 19^th and 20^th century. Many people built colonial manor houses in the village, one of the most magnificent examples of Victorian colonial architecture are Villa Victoria or the Russo’s’ house.

For many Campamento was a 19^th century Sotogrande, which also featured the magnificent Prince Alfonso Hotel, which was inaugurated in 1916. The hotel most glorious period was during the Second World War when it was used by Nazi spies. The building was situated where the Crinavis shipyards are nowadays. Unfortunately, the hotel was demolished in the Sixties.

Campamento Culinary Route

(Itinerary for lunch or dinner)

On a gastronomic level, Campamento has always been one of the more important culinary areas, not only in the municipality of San Roque, but in the rest of the Gibraltar Area in general. This is no coincidence as there are a vast number of quality establishments in the village. Its strategic location on CA-34 main road between San Roque and La Linea & Gibraltar has favoured this accumulation of places to eat out.

The establishments in Campamento offer fresh fish and seafood, thanks to its proximity to the Bay of Algeciras, where the Atlantic and the Mediterranean meet at the Pillars of Hercules.

The first establishment we encountered in “Calle Real” (Main Street) was the rustic El Tendío Old World Inn, where meat is the main dish. At this extraordinary home for meat lovers, we were recommended ox chops with barbecue sauce.

Close-by at Bodeguita de Campamento, another typical establishment. We tried the magnificent Argentinian sirloin with Catalonian sausage and a reduction of Pedro Ximénez wine.

Next door, a new tapa bar has opened called Mecha's, right next to the previous place. Here we chose a “montañero” – fried banana with mince meat and a fried quail egg.

Just around the corner in Calle Obispo (Bishop Street) is where Casa Bernal is located, founded in 1886 by the family of the same name. In fact, it is said to be the oldest inn in the Gibraltar Area! This typical restaurant is almost like going back in a time warp. After over a hundred years it is still one of most popular places in the area. Here we were recommended “viña ave” soup, a delicious soup with seafood.

Bar Tres Hermanos, is owned by the Cacheira family and is also at least one hundred years old. The bar specialises in sandwiches and tapas, making it ideal for a quick snack.

Almost at the end of “Calle Real” is La Guita. This bar offers a wide variety of home-made stews and broths that will make your mouth water.

Next door is La Guitarra, a very original and unique premise with a thatched roof. Here we enjoyed red shrimp with monk fish in Vermouth sauce.

Last but not least, we visited the Posada del Millán, located within the Incosur Industrial Estate behind Campamento. Here we savoured kingklip fillets in prawn sauce.

All in all, Campamento is a wonderful location for lovers of fine food, where quality is the distinctive element. There are establishments for every taste and with a wide range of prices, from popular bars to the most selective restaurants. So basically, it’s down to you, so let’s make a toast for good food and we hope you enjoy your meal!

Gastronomy‘s a historical legacy at Puente Mayorga

Without a doubt, the village of Puente Mayorga, located in the borough of San Roque, has a rich historical background. The nearby ancient city of Carteya, founded in 700 B.C. by the Phoenicians, reached its maximum splendour  during the Roman  period  when it became the first "free colony" (Colonia Libertinorum) in Hispania .

Firm evidence of the dimensions and importance of the ancient city of Carteya are now visible at the magnificent Carteya Archaeological Site, in the village of Guadarranque. In addition, some new finds, including tombs from 100 B.C. and 100 A.D. in the Villa Victoria area and "Callejón del Moro" have brought new light upon its glorious past.

In the context of ancient times, Carteya must have been an enormous city which could have had a surface area spanning the centre of the Bay Area, within the Borough of San Roque.

Later on in 1540 the Turks landed at the village of Puente Mayorga during a raid, destroying more than 200 barrels containing eighteen thousand gallons of wine which belonged to the church tithe. They also slaughtered 300 pigs which were grazing in the surrounding fields. There was already a settlement here at the time.

Until the 1930’s the village had its own customs office and could have been the natural harbour for the Bay of Algeciras. The bridge we can see today over the Gallegos River, gave place to the name of the village and dates back to the 18^th century.

During the Second World War (1939-1945) the secret services on both sides were regularly active in the Gibraltar Area. Nevertheless, German and Italian spies were the ones who had the approval of the Franco regime.

At the beginning of the War, Mussolini used the "Olterra", an oil tanker that had come aground at Puente Mayorga as an operations command headquarters to attack Gibraltar. For this very purpose the ship was towed to Algeciras and reconverted.

The "Regia Marina" (Italian Navy) divers used a house located on a small hill between the villages of Puente Mayorga and Guadarranque as a base to sabotage Allied ships anchored in the Bay of Algeciras and also to used mini submarines to attack the strategic port of Gibraltar.

The Villa Carmela estate was used as a base for Gamma Group secret operations, who saw action from January to September 1942.

Puente Mayorga: Fruit of the Sea Route

Just like the neighbouring village of Campamento, the bars of Puente Mayorga are also well-known for their fresh fish and shellfish dishes - quite normal due to the proximity of the Bay, where the Atlantic and Mediterranean currents meet with the legendary Pillar of Hercules (Monte Calpe and Sidi Musa).

Entering the village via the new Avenida Virgen del Carmen from the CA-34 main road roundabout, take the first right at Avenida La Colonia which leads to Pi y Margall street and  Avenida del Mar.

In Pi y Margall street there is a public car park near the "Roman" bridge. We parked here and made our way along the village's narrow streets, where yo0u can still perceive the atmosphere of a typical Andalusian fishing village.

Despite the area's heavy industrial presence,  many architectural features have been preserved here, which have  disappeared long ago in other traditional fishing villages along the Mediterranean coastline.  A good example of  this is the restored Council Building in Cervantes street.

Our first stop was at Bar Cafetería Plaza in the emblematic San Fernando Square, next to the San Hiscio Parish Church. We sampled pork in garlic here.

Next we visited the new Bar La Moncloa (named after the Spanish Prime Minister’s residence) is located in Antonio Rodríguez street. Here we tried a montaíto – a pork fillet in bun with a variety of sauces.

Just around the corner is where Bar Restaurante Los Clavelitos is located. This establishment offers home-made cuisine, specialising in fish and shellfish. From 1986 the Avilés Viñolo family has managed the bar, although everyone in San Roque call it Aurelio’s Bar. We savoured cuttlefish in almond sauce (jibia en salsa de almendras) here.

In the same avenue is the recently renovated Pep Córdoba Square, where you can admire the extraordinary view of the Rock from the promenade, tempting you stroll towards the Campamento beach. Right by is Bar Playa, where fried fish (pescaíto frito) is served at the pavement café in summer.

Going back the same way we came, we entered the Alameda San Pedro Square, where we came across the Bar Las Palmeras. This popular bar is where we sampled snails in sauce (caracoles en salsa).

There are two other establishments in the very same square, Bar La Choza and Bar Casablanca. At the former we tried another great tapa, montadito a la pimiento and at the latter we savoured a classic dish, Moroccan kebabs (pinchitos morunos)

Who could ask for more? Enjoying a meal with family and friends, as well as visiting new places…

It is time to say farewell, mind due though, if you have not visited the Carteya Archaeological Site, an excursion before lunch is our recommendation. We should forget to mention the beaches of Puente Mayorga, Campamento and Guadarranque, which offer excellent facilities in summer and are ideal for walks on their fine sands in winter.